Between Meals
An Appetite for Paris
Liebling on eating in 1920s Paris as a young man on an allowance, and on the appetite required to do it properly.
Liebling’s memoir of eating in Paris as a young man in the 1920s, written near the end of his life. It is about appetite as an education: the restaurants he could afford on an allowance, the older men who taught him what to order, and the conviction that the feeder is a serious figure. The best-loved of his books.
Recommended by 1 Person
Ruth Reichl
Yes, and he trapped rabbits. There’s also a wonderful passage about his father taking the intestines of chickens and washing them very carefully and leaving them to soak overnight. His Sunday morning ritual was cutting them into little pieces and frying them crisp and then folding them into an omelette. He talks about how Americans won’t eat these things. It’s still one of the really high hurdles for Americans.
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